Wrinkled Egg Shells
Written by Tim Daniels
If the white of an egg (or Albumen as it is correctly known) is watery, it is
harder for a shell to be built correctly around it and can cause an egg shell to be wrinkled or have ripples on it.
As hens get older, the whites in their eggs will get thinner but some diseases such as the viral disease Infectious Bronchitis can also affect the ability of the bird to produce thick albumen (white) and cause wrinkled egg shells, even years after infection.
If a hen has a good diet of a good quality layers feed, doesn't have any obvious health problems and has access to grit, there isn't anything that can be done about wrinkled shells. Eggs can still be eaten as normal, providing the egg shell doesn't have any cracks in it. Broken eggs should be discarded as bacteria will have entered the egg (I don't waste these though, they are fed to the dog).
Written by Tim Daniels
If the white of an egg (or Albumen as it is correctly known) is watery, it is
harder for a shell to be built correctly around it and can cause an egg shell to be wrinkled or have ripples on it.
As hens get older, the whites in their eggs will get thinner but some diseases such as the viral disease Infectious Bronchitis can also affect the ability of the bird to produce thick albumen (white) and cause wrinkled egg shells, even years after infection.
If a hen has a good diet of a good quality layers feed, doesn't have any obvious health problems and has access to grit, there isn't anything that can be done about wrinkled shells. Eggs can still be eaten as normal, providing the egg shell doesn't have any cracks in it. Broken eggs should be discarded as bacteria will have entered the egg (I don't waste these though, they are fed to the dog).
WINTERING YOUR BIRDS
By Jacqueline Cross (libellule)
January 12, 2010
When temperatures are extreme, it is important that your poultry stay healthy. A little extra time before the wind turns icy can save a lot of damage and possible deaths to your backyard flock.
(Editor's Note: This article was originally published on December 3, 2008)
Chickens are much tougher than they may appear and only need a little extra care for winter months. The heat can actually be more damaging to their health than the cold. The same is true for ducks and geese. After all, these birds survived centuries without interference from humans. Of course, our backyard birds are more of a concern to us than those that came before them.
What can go wrong with chickens in the winter? Frostbite is the number one concern. The combs, wattles and feet are susceptible to frostbite in extreme weather. A rooster whose comb freezes is not only in a lot of pain but may also be less fertile. Poultry owners may choose dubbing as a preventive measure for their chickens. I have personally never done this with any of my chickens and before it is attempted, the owner should be certain they know what they are doing so as not to harm the birds.. The Cajun Yankee has a good tutorial for those that may want to try it. For the rest of us here are a few simple steps to prevent frostbite in chickens.
Herrick CC 2.5 by-sa
Public domain/USDA
The chicken coop, or house, should be tight enough to keep the icy wind from blowing through the walls. It should have wire-covered windows (holes cut in the walls covered by strong wire) which can be opened on milder days for air circulation. One way to determine whether or not your coop is tight enough is to go inside, shut the door and squat down. While in this position you can feel any drafts, which may be affecting your chickens. If you feel it, they are definitely feeling it.
In the coldest climates, you may need to install insulation in the chicken coop. To keep birds warm through the coldest months of winter, an electric heater with a thermostat set to come on when temperatures fall below 35° F may be mounted high on the wall. Make certain there are no wires within reach of chickens. As any chicken owner knows, they will peck at anything new and electric wires; including extension cords, should be kept out of their reach.
Wood should be used for roosts and should never be made of metal poles or plastic. Wood roosts will help to keep their feet warm whereas metal or plastic will stay cold all the time and cause their feet to become too cold. Imagine stepping on a sheet of tin with your bare feet in the winter and then having to remain there for hours.
Some sort of litter should be used in the coop such as straw. This will also help by keeping their feet off the frozen ground while they scratch around during the day. Keeping the straw clean is extremely important. Check it daily, rake out and replace when it becomes soiled or wet. This is very important because the lack of ventilation within the coop and the smell of ammonia given off by their droppings collecting in the straw will make them sick. Also, wet straw will freeze and they will be walking on ice.
If snow collects in the chicken yard, shovel it out so birds will be able to walk around without sinking in the snow. They will go into the yard during the day if a door is opened in the coop from which they can come and go. They prefer to be outside during the day, even in very cold weather. Check to make sure the door is closed at night to prevent cold winds from blowing through the coop while they are roosting. This should also be done the rest of the year to keep critters out at night.
Water, Food and Eggs
Chickens need fresh clean water in the winter just as they do in the summer. To prevent water from freezing in the coldest climates you may want to invest in a heated bowl that can be purchased from feed and hardware stores. A rubber dish can be used which will expand when ice forms and will not break like plastic. Water will freeze more quickly in metal containers. It is very important to check water containers several times a day when temperatures are at their lowest because ice will form on top and chickens may not be able to break it.
Feed a well-balanced pellet feed and scratch grain in the winter for healthy birds. A little grit is given to help break up the pellets in their gizzards. Adding vegetable peelings, greens and cooked vegetables will also help. Chickens need more feed in the winter to keep their body heat up. By varying their diet, they will receive the protein and calcium needed to raise their body heat and also keep the hens laying.
If the production of eggs is a concern during winter, make sure hens get plenty of sunshine or a vitamin D supplement. *This supplement can be found in commercial feeds. Hanging a light bulb in the nesting area to extend the ‘daylight' hours to fourteen will entice the hens to lay more eggs. A sixty-watt light bulb is sufficient for this purpose. Remember to keep hay/straw clean and dry in laying nests.
Golden Pheasant by Jimfbleak; {GNU FDL}Other Backyard Poultry
Other birds such as turkeys, pheasants and quail need the same care in winter as chickens. Keep their shelters dry and warm. Add plenty of hay or straw to their bedding areas. Quail and pheasant housing may be much smaller than chicken and turkey housing. Adding extra hay gives the little birds plenty of insulation from the cold.
Care of Waterfowl
Ducks and geese prefer to be outside all the time. In fact, they do not like being closed up at all and will more than likely not go into a shelter without being coaxed into it, no matter what the weather is like. Ducks can be seen swimming in ponds around the ice which floats on top in the winter.
Housing
A windbreak with a roof can be built against the back of a barn or even the chicken coop. Straw should be placed on the floor of shelter and--like chicken coops--it should be changed regularly to keep it clean. The shelter does not need to be very large because ducks like to huddle together to stay warm. They will all be in one very small space no matter how large the shelter is. Smaller is better as they will not stay inside except on the most severe days of winter. If using a large space to shelter waterfowl, try building a smaller box for them to go into within the space.
The exception may be for ducklings as they cannot regulate their body temperature and may need to be brought into a garage, cellar or heated barn during freezing weather.
Feed and Water
Your ducks and geese will eat more in the winter to help keep their body temperatures up, so be prepared to supply them with a good quality grain through the winter.
Geese in snow by Raywal of Morgue File Ducks in winter pond by A-woj
of Morgue File Ducks in winter pond by A-woj
Like chickens, waterfowl should have an ample supply of fresh clean water at all times. They should also have access to a pond for swimming. They will swim in the coldest of climates throughout the season. In northern climates where ponds freeze several inches or more deep and it cannot be broken for waterfowl to swim, try setting up a kid's pool with a recirculating pump to keep water from freezing. Your waterfowl will love you for it.
Take the time to keep your backyard poultry happy and healthy and they will reward you with eggs, meat and companionship for years to come.
January 12, 2010
When temperatures are extreme, it is important that your poultry stay healthy. A little extra time before the wind turns icy can save a lot of damage and possible deaths to your backyard flock.
(Editor's Note: This article was originally published on December 3, 2008)
Chickens are much tougher than they may appear and only need a little extra care for winter months. The heat can actually be more damaging to their health than the cold. The same is true for ducks and geese. After all, these birds survived centuries without interference from humans. Of course, our backyard birds are more of a concern to us than those that came before them.
What can go wrong with chickens in the winter? Frostbite is the number one concern. The combs, wattles and feet are susceptible to frostbite in extreme weather. A rooster whose comb freezes is not only in a lot of pain but may also be less fertile. Poultry owners may choose dubbing as a preventive measure for their chickens. I have personally never done this with any of my chickens and before it is attempted, the owner should be certain they know what they are doing so as not to harm the birds.. The Cajun Yankee has a good tutorial for those that may want to try it. For the rest of us here are a few simple steps to prevent frostbite in chickens.
Herrick CC 2.5 by-sa
Public domain/USDA
The chicken coop, or house, should be tight enough to keep the icy wind from blowing through the walls. It should have wire-covered windows (holes cut in the walls covered by strong wire) which can be opened on milder days for air circulation. One way to determine whether or not your coop is tight enough is to go inside, shut the door and squat down. While in this position you can feel any drafts, which may be affecting your chickens. If you feel it, they are definitely feeling it.
In the coldest climates, you may need to install insulation in the chicken coop. To keep birds warm through the coldest months of winter, an electric heater with a thermostat set to come on when temperatures fall below 35° F may be mounted high on the wall. Make certain there are no wires within reach of chickens. As any chicken owner knows, they will peck at anything new and electric wires; including extension cords, should be kept out of their reach.
Wood should be used for roosts and should never be made of metal poles or plastic. Wood roosts will help to keep their feet warm whereas metal or plastic will stay cold all the time and cause their feet to become too cold. Imagine stepping on a sheet of tin with your bare feet in the winter and then having to remain there for hours.
Some sort of litter should be used in the coop such as straw. This will also help by keeping their feet off the frozen ground while they scratch around during the day. Keeping the straw clean is extremely important. Check it daily, rake out and replace when it becomes soiled or wet. This is very important because the lack of ventilation within the coop and the smell of ammonia given off by their droppings collecting in the straw will make them sick. Also, wet straw will freeze and they will be walking on ice.
If snow collects in the chicken yard, shovel it out so birds will be able to walk around without sinking in the snow. They will go into the yard during the day if a door is opened in the coop from which they can come and go. They prefer to be outside during the day, even in very cold weather. Check to make sure the door is closed at night to prevent cold winds from blowing through the coop while they are roosting. This should also be done the rest of the year to keep critters out at night.
Water, Food and Eggs
Chickens need fresh clean water in the winter just as they do in the summer. To prevent water from freezing in the coldest climates you may want to invest in a heated bowl that can be purchased from feed and hardware stores. A rubber dish can be used which will expand when ice forms and will not break like plastic. Water will freeze more quickly in metal containers. It is very important to check water containers several times a day when temperatures are at their lowest because ice will form on top and chickens may not be able to break it.
Feed a well-balanced pellet feed and scratch grain in the winter for healthy birds. A little grit is given to help break up the pellets in their gizzards. Adding vegetable peelings, greens and cooked vegetables will also help. Chickens need more feed in the winter to keep their body heat up. By varying their diet, they will receive the protein and calcium needed to raise their body heat and also keep the hens laying.
If the production of eggs is a concern during winter, make sure hens get plenty of sunshine or a vitamin D supplement. *This supplement can be found in commercial feeds. Hanging a light bulb in the nesting area to extend the ‘daylight' hours to fourteen will entice the hens to lay more eggs. A sixty-watt light bulb is sufficient for this purpose. Remember to keep hay/straw clean and dry in laying nests.
Golden Pheasant by Jimfbleak; {GNU FDL}Other Backyard Poultry
Other birds such as turkeys, pheasants and quail need the same care in winter as chickens. Keep their shelters dry and warm. Add plenty of hay or straw to their bedding areas. Quail and pheasant housing may be much smaller than chicken and turkey housing. Adding extra hay gives the little birds plenty of insulation from the cold.
Care of Waterfowl
Ducks and geese prefer to be outside all the time. In fact, they do not like being closed up at all and will more than likely not go into a shelter without being coaxed into it, no matter what the weather is like. Ducks can be seen swimming in ponds around the ice which floats on top in the winter.
Housing
A windbreak with a roof can be built against the back of a barn or even the chicken coop. Straw should be placed on the floor of shelter and--like chicken coops--it should be changed regularly to keep it clean. The shelter does not need to be very large because ducks like to huddle together to stay warm. They will all be in one very small space no matter how large the shelter is. Smaller is better as they will not stay inside except on the most severe days of winter. If using a large space to shelter waterfowl, try building a smaller box for them to go into within the space.
The exception may be for ducklings as they cannot regulate their body temperature and may need to be brought into a garage, cellar or heated barn during freezing weather.
Feed and Water
Your ducks and geese will eat more in the winter to help keep their body temperatures up, so be prepared to supply them with a good quality grain through the winter.
Geese in snow by Raywal of Morgue File Ducks in winter pond by A-woj
of Morgue File Ducks in winter pond by A-woj
Like chickens, waterfowl should have an ample supply of fresh clean water at all times. They should also have access to a pond for swimming. They will swim in the coldest of climates throughout the season. In northern climates where ponds freeze several inches or more deep and it cannot be broken for waterfowl to swim, try setting up a kid's pool with a recirculating pump to keep water from freezing. Your waterfowl will love you for it.
Take the time to keep your backyard poultry happy and healthy and they will reward you with eggs, meat and companionship for years to come.
ABOUT PREDATORS
Predators
Shortage of food supply causes an increase in predation during
the winter months. Losses to predators, such as hawks, raccoons and
coyotes, are preventable — as long as a few of their basic behavior
patterns are understood, they can easily be thwarted by a little
forethought and preparation.
Raccoons are one of the most common predators. They are nocturnal, and can be the worst of the proverbial “fox in the henhouse,” sometimes killing, seemingly for sport, the majority of a flock in a single night. They normally work to gain access to your coop, rather than finding and enlarging a hole. They will remove loose boards or roof shingles, open simple latches (such as hook and eye) and reach through small holes to gain access to your coop. They have been known to be strong enough to tear chicken wire, and similar deterrents usually do not stop them. The best way to handle a raccoon problem is to secure the poultry housing and to be present if they begin to target your coop. Trapping can be effective.
Weasels and minks are harder to stop. They can fit into small openings and are hard to deter. Like raccoons, they usually kill in nighttime rampages that seem more for sport than food. But these creatures are relatively rare and often too timid to come near civilization.
Coyotes are easier to keep out due to their size and limitations. Simple fences will often take care of this problem, although they can burrow under them. A line of electrified wire near the top and bottom of the fence will keep them from digging or jumping over your fences. Coyotes work in groups or alone at any time of the day or night, and are capable of capturing birds as large as turkeys. Simple prevention in the fall will eliminate these predators for the rest of the year.
Hawks aren’t limited by fences and normally do not try to gain access to the coop. Most often, they snatch birds in daylight while foraging. There is really no better way to protect your birds from these aerial predators than to raise geese with them, or to set up bird netting on the tops of your pens. Hawks usually take only one bird at a time and leave only feathers behind as evidence.
There are many products on the market designed to deter these predators. One of the most effective for night predators is the Sentry, a motion activated LED light that senses predators from a distance and flashes on for a few seconds, often scaring them away permanently.
If you are not sure which type of predators you have in your area, check the tracks around your place or use a field guide to determine the source of the problem and the best course of action. Local water sources are a good place to look for tracks.
Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Happy-Homesteader/Keeping-Chickens-In-Winter.aspx#ixzz1Gp3PYurw
Raccoons are one of the most common predators. They are nocturnal, and can be the worst of the proverbial “fox in the henhouse,” sometimes killing, seemingly for sport, the majority of a flock in a single night. They normally work to gain access to your coop, rather than finding and enlarging a hole. They will remove loose boards or roof shingles, open simple latches (such as hook and eye) and reach through small holes to gain access to your coop. They have been known to be strong enough to tear chicken wire, and similar deterrents usually do not stop them. The best way to handle a raccoon problem is to secure the poultry housing and to be present if they begin to target your coop. Trapping can be effective.
Weasels and minks are harder to stop. They can fit into small openings and are hard to deter. Like raccoons, they usually kill in nighttime rampages that seem more for sport than food. But these creatures are relatively rare and often too timid to come near civilization.
Coyotes are easier to keep out due to their size and limitations. Simple fences will often take care of this problem, although they can burrow under them. A line of electrified wire near the top and bottom of the fence will keep them from digging or jumping over your fences. Coyotes work in groups or alone at any time of the day or night, and are capable of capturing birds as large as turkeys. Simple prevention in the fall will eliminate these predators for the rest of the year.
Hawks aren’t limited by fences and normally do not try to gain access to the coop. Most often, they snatch birds in daylight while foraging. There is really no better way to protect your birds from these aerial predators than to raise geese with them, or to set up bird netting on the tops of your pens. Hawks usually take only one bird at a time and leave only feathers behind as evidence.
There are many products on the market designed to deter these predators. One of the most effective for night predators is the Sentry, a motion activated LED light that senses predators from a distance and flashes on for a few seconds, often scaring them away permanently.
If you are not sure which type of predators you have in your area, check the tracks around your place or use a field guide to determine the source of the problem and the best course of action. Local water sources are a good place to look for tracks.
Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Happy-Homesteader/Keeping-Chickens-In-Winter.aspx#ixzz1Gp3PYurw