Here is a simple “homemade” poultry feed for the backyard flock owner:
This is a very simply system once you get on
to it. Did you know that fermented grains increase protein absorption,
vitamins/mineral availability, boosts overall disease resistance, and enhances
health performance? Incubating the
good microbes produces a probiotic culture which out-competes or destroys
harmful bacteria found in the environment. More nutrient absorption, means less
food, means more $$$ in your pocket at the end of the day.
This concept is ancient for food preservation…..think Kim chi,
sauerkraut, yogurt, sour cream, kombucha and the list goes on.
Fermenting poultry grain is as old as the hills. Don’t re-invent the
wheel…………nature knows best.
My recipe made
for 1 X 5gal. Bucket. This is a very narrowed down version of a simple homemade
version of a digestible and healthy poultry
feed.
FILL: A BUCKET with 1/3 full of WHOLE grains
and 1/3 of water (the other 1/3 gives you space for mixing and transporting
without spillage). It is very important that you keep your bucket of brew in a
warm place………to ferment….what
else? When done correctly……..this
mixture will start to bubble by morning thyme. Should ferment 12 hours and 24 hours
would be ideal. You don’t have to use all the ingredients or be complicated with
any particular formula…………..”fermentation” is the key.
·
Oats (whole) - tip: use whole grains. Once grains are ground, they
quickly go rancid.
·
Cracked corn (NON-gmo)
·
Wheat (whole)
·
Little bit of buckwheat (whole)
·
Starter-mother/microbiological starter.
What is a starter? A
starter is a preparation to assist the
beginning of the fermentation process in preparation
of various foods/grains…etc. Don’t let this scare
you, it is as simply as adding yeast to flour to make
bread.
I use a kombucha tea (which is a fermented/symbiotic culture of fungal and bacterial colonies). This health giving elixir is fermented for 8 days for a healthful everyday probiotic health drink. I ferment it for 30 days to brew tea vinegar; IN
THE ALTERNATIVE: if
you don’t have a kombucha “mother”, then use apple cider vinegar……..by
fermenting apple juice (without the preservatives).
Keep this ACV in a warm place and keep adding to it as you are using it
up. TIP: put a little sugar/molasses with it and remember you want to create a
“live” culture. So fermentation means bubbles.
You will save part of the sloppy/grainy mix (a couple of cups only)
of the brew for the next batch….this will be your started mother. Started
mothers go in every batch, it speeds up the process.
You will know it’s working because by morning thyme the bucket of wet
grains will be bubbling and active…..ALIVE.
·
Molasses (Cheap tip:
if you buy a bag of sweet feed for $14.95 and put 1 cup in the bucket………that’s
all you need……the molasses feeds the culture and your bag of sweet feed may last
1 month)
·
½ cup oyster shell
·
½ cup of kelp (has
over 60 chelated minerals-including zinc, selenium, copper which are all
deficient in our local soils but important to health/fertility/production- a 50
lb. bag of dried ground kelp is approx. $47.00 & goes a very long way, I use
it in my garden too)
·
Quinoa is optional if you grow it……..it is nature’s perfect protein
& it is so pretty in the garden.
If your flock is not free ranging for insects or are confined in winter
then they will have no access to a perfect protein
(insects/flies/meat/milk/cheese/eggs). You must give them some kind of
protein…………a grower ration will do
the same but be sure there are no antibiotics/hormones/ or arsenic in your
ration…………this will kill your ferment and your efforts (USE A DUCK/GOOSE
GROWER-waterfowl are very sensitive to chemicals so it is not added to waterfowl
grower). Your brew must be “ALIVE”!
The protein source will prevent feather picking, increase overall health
and give much required methionine & lysine which is a requirement of
omnivores. (THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT in organic agriculture because feeds are
made without meat products, so chemical substitutes must be added to provide
complete nutrition absorption)
·
I always throw in my left over potato water (from boiling), left
over juices/teas/brews or sour milk etc. in my bucket too.
It all adds to the vitamin content and fermentation…… LIVE process. Not necessary, but what the hell, if you got it, then add it.
A FEW OTHER HOT TIPS:
SUMMERTIME my poultry water is always laced with ACV and I grow pumpkins
especially for the birds……….Did you know that pumpkin seed is a natural dewormer and is 40% protein, a great conditioner and full of carotene & omegas?
Grow it on your compost heap or in an unused fence row. To feed 4 pigs, I
go through 1 truckload of pumpkins per week……….they love it.
No harsh chemicals or expensive feed bills and happy/healthy pigs. Actually turkeys go ape over watermelons….they grab at the seeds first which again is full of life giving
nutrients for a healthy and productive bird. I always give my birds some kind of
greens through the winter months, It really does add “condition” to them….and
always delouse your birds….lice/mites can really take a toll on our fine
feathered friends.
IN WINTER I feed rendered pork fat, in the mad frenzy the roosters
naturally coat their combs keeping them free from frost.
Give your birds the care they deserve because they in turn give us so
much.
So there you have it, good luck…………and have fun with it all.
BY: Christine Halbot
This is a very simply system once you get on
to it. Did you know that fermented grains increase protein absorption,
vitamins/mineral availability, boosts overall disease resistance, and enhances
health performance? Incubating the
good microbes produces a probiotic culture which out-competes or destroys
harmful bacteria found in the environment. More nutrient absorption, means less
food, means more $$$ in your pocket at the end of the day.
This concept is ancient for food preservation…..think Kim chi,
sauerkraut, yogurt, sour cream, kombucha and the list goes on.
Fermenting poultry grain is as old as the hills. Don’t re-invent the
wheel…………nature knows best.
My recipe made
for 1 X 5gal. Bucket. This is a very narrowed down version of a simple homemade
version of a digestible and healthy poultry
feed.
FILL: A BUCKET with 1/3 full of WHOLE grains
and 1/3 of water (the other 1/3 gives you space for mixing and transporting
without spillage). It is very important that you keep your bucket of brew in a
warm place………to ferment….what
else? When done correctly……..this
mixture will start to bubble by morning thyme. Should ferment 12 hours and 24 hours
would be ideal. You don’t have to use all the ingredients or be complicated with
any particular formula…………..”fermentation” is the key.
·
Oats (whole) - tip: use whole grains. Once grains are ground, they
quickly go rancid.
·
Cracked corn (NON-gmo)
·
Wheat (whole)
·
Little bit of buckwheat (whole)
·
Starter-mother/microbiological starter.
What is a starter? A
starter is a preparation to assist the
beginning of the fermentation process in preparation
of various foods/grains…etc. Don’t let this scare
you, it is as simply as adding yeast to flour to make
bread.
I use a kombucha tea (which is a fermented/symbiotic culture of fungal and bacterial colonies). This health giving elixir is fermented for 8 days for a healthful everyday probiotic health drink. I ferment it for 30 days to brew tea vinegar; IN
THE ALTERNATIVE: if
you don’t have a kombucha “mother”, then use apple cider vinegar……..by
fermenting apple juice (without the preservatives).
Keep this ACV in a warm place and keep adding to it as you are using it
up. TIP: put a little sugar/molasses with it and remember you want to create a
“live” culture. So fermentation means bubbles.
You will save part of the sloppy/grainy mix (a couple of cups only)
of the brew for the next batch….this will be your started mother. Started
mothers go in every batch, it speeds up the process.
You will know it’s working because by morning thyme the bucket of wet
grains will be bubbling and active…..ALIVE.
·
Molasses (Cheap tip:
if you buy a bag of sweet feed for $14.95 and put 1 cup in the bucket………that’s
all you need……the molasses feeds the culture and your bag of sweet feed may last
1 month)
·
½ cup oyster shell
·
½ cup of kelp (has
over 60 chelated minerals-including zinc, selenium, copper which are all
deficient in our local soils but important to health/fertility/production- a 50
lb. bag of dried ground kelp is approx. $47.00 & goes a very long way, I use
it in my garden too)
·
Quinoa is optional if you grow it……..it is nature’s perfect protein
& it is so pretty in the garden.
If your flock is not free ranging for insects or are confined in winter
then they will have no access to a perfect protein
(insects/flies/meat/milk/cheese/eggs). You must give them some kind of
protein…………a grower ration will do
the same but be sure there are no antibiotics/hormones/ or arsenic in your
ration…………this will kill your ferment and your efforts (USE A DUCK/GOOSE
GROWER-waterfowl are very sensitive to chemicals so it is not added to waterfowl
grower). Your brew must be “ALIVE”!
The protein source will prevent feather picking, increase overall health
and give much required methionine & lysine which is a requirement of
omnivores. (THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT in organic agriculture because feeds are
made without meat products, so chemical substitutes must be added to provide
complete nutrition absorption)
·
I always throw in my left over potato water (from boiling), left
over juices/teas/brews or sour milk etc. in my bucket too.
It all adds to the vitamin content and fermentation…… LIVE process. Not necessary, but what the hell, if you got it, then add it.
A FEW OTHER HOT TIPS:
SUMMERTIME my poultry water is always laced with ACV and I grow pumpkins
especially for the birds……….Did you know that pumpkin seed is a natural dewormer and is 40% protein, a great conditioner and full of carotene & omegas?
Grow it on your compost heap or in an unused fence row. To feed 4 pigs, I
go through 1 truckload of pumpkins per week……….they love it.
No harsh chemicals or expensive feed bills and happy/healthy pigs. Actually turkeys go ape over watermelons….they grab at the seeds first which again is full of life giving
nutrients for a healthy and productive bird. I always give my birds some kind of
greens through the winter months, It really does add “condition” to them….and
always delouse your birds….lice/mites can really take a toll on our fine
feathered friends.
IN WINTER I feed rendered pork fat, in the mad frenzy the roosters
naturally coat their combs keeping them free from frost.
Give your birds the care they deserve because they in turn give us so
much.
So there you have it, good luck…………and have fun with it all.
BY: Christine Halbot
Chicken Health Chart / Treatment and Prevention
Illness Causes Symptoms Treatment / Prevention
Amonia Burn
Damp or wet litter.
Eyes water, may become blind.
Make sure coop stays dry and clean, give vitamin A. Sprinkle organic food
grade diatomaceous earth on coop floor to keep it dry.
Aspergillosis
Birds inhale spores from moldy feed, litter and dust.
Loss of appetite, more thirsty.
Disinfect entire coop and feeders at least once a year, keep coop clean and
dry, remove wet litter. Sprinkle organic food grade diatomaceous earth on coop
floor to keep dry.
Bronchitis
Airborne Virus.
Sneezing, coughing, loss of egg production, soft egg shell.
Vaccinate before laying begins, no treatment.
Botulism
Decayed matter is eaten. (animal or vegetable.)
Difficulty breathing, can't walk, very weak, can't swallow.
Keep coops and yard clean, feed only fresh foods, remove any dead animals,
try Epsom Salts in water. (1 lb salt in 5 gal. of water.)
Bumble Foot
Bruised or cuts on bottom of feet.
Infection gets in the skin, hard time walking, scab under the foot.
Keep floors non-slippery, not too height of roost, open and drain any
infection and paint wound with iodine.
Coccidiosis
Hens eat the droppings that are contaminated with the parasite which attack
the lining of the intestines.
High death rate in flock, loss of appetite and egg production, bloody
stool.
Vaccinate as chicks, in major outbreaks give recommended medicine in water.
(Can also try 1/4 C. of vinegar per gal. of water.)
Coryza
Contagious respiratory bacterial disease. Can spread at poultry shows, some
hens can be carriers even if they are better.
Nasal discharge, eyes goopy & sticky, loss of appetite and egg
production.
Keep hens the same age group, antibiotics can be recommended by
vet.
Cannibalism
Too many hens in one space, not enough feed (protein) or water, boredom,
taste of blood, bright colors.
Pecking each other, can cause open wounds and sometimes kill other hens, egg
eating.
Make sure hens have enough space to run around, provide plenty of water and
feed. If cannibalism gets bad, start feeding a mash or crumb so they get full
faster. Offer variety of treats to keep them entertained, chicken scratch keeps
them busy. (More treats listed on chicken care page.) Trim beaks if necessary.
Enteritis (diarrhea)
Hard to diagnose, many types of causes. Mainly from drinking water that is
contaminated with bacteria or viruses.
Hen has diarrhea, watery droppings in variation of colors from yellow, white
and green.
Get specific diagnosis from a vet, practice good sanitation with coop and
yard, use plastic waterers.
Leg Injuries
Accidents, slippery floors, rusty wire, infection, etc.
Swollen joints, soft bones, twisted legs, broken bones, swollen feet,
paralysis, legs flex sideways.
Use wood chips on the coop floor, do not use newspaper even for chicks,
avoid slippery linoleum and vinyl floors for coop. Determine cause and treat
accordingly. Wood or dirt floors are best, they also air out
better.
Lymphoid Leukosis
Tumor caused viral infection,(enlarged liver.) Can be transmitted to younger
hens from older infected hens.
reduced feed intake, weakness, diarrhea, dehydration, weight loss,
depression and reduced egg production.
Keep flocks the same age, brood away from older hens.
Lice
Can spread from new hens or wild birds. Housing ducks and geese with hens
can contribute.
Decrease in egg production and weight gain. Increased disease
susceptibility, loss in appetite, diarrhea, excessive grooming, and sometimes
molting is triggered, death can occur.
Clean shavings and feathers in coop, inspection is great
prevention to catch them early (inspect around vents once monthly if possible),
dust with Seven powder as directed or organic food grade diatomaceous earth
every 1-2 weeks until gone. Sprinkle food grade DE in coop and nest boxes. Read
more on Chicken Care page about lice and mites.
Marek's Disease
Airborne, Herpes virus. spread by contaminated skin & feather dust
(dander), litter and infected hens.
Paralysis of wings, legs, neck. Eyes are a grey color.
Only purchase vaccinated chicks. Keep flock the same age, keep younger hens
separated.
Mites
Poultry mites are tiny reddish brown bugs that suck the blood at night when
chicken is roosting. Lives in hen house and on the hen. Northern fowl mites are
aggressive and feed day and night. (Wild birds can spread different types of
mites.) Scaly Leg mites can get in hens leg scales.
Very similar symptoms as lice, loss of egg production and appetite,
excessive grooming, bright pink bottoms and feathers falling out. Untreated can
result in death. Leg mites cause scales to lift, legs swell and sometimes ooze.
(ouch.)
Clean shavings is coop as needed. Keep organic food grade diatomaceous earth
on hand at all times, sprinkle it on coop floor, in next boxes and in corners.
Inspect hens once monthly around vents, dust with food grade
diatomaceous earth as needed once a week until gone. Seven powder can be used
or other various pour on medications.
Newcastle Disease
Virus spread by feces, contact with contaminated feed, water, equipment and
clothing.
Nervous and respiratory signs, coughing, nasal discharge, decrease in egg
production.
Vaccination, sanitary measures reduces the likelihood of outbreaks. No
treatment.
Omphalitis
Effects baby chicks, most commonly caused by bacteria, usually unsanitary
Hatchery.
May involve the chicks appearing drowsy, they drop their head and look
inferior to the other chicks.
Make sure to get chicks from reputable hatchery.
Pasty Manure on Bottom.
Lack of activity, stress while being transported.
Manure becomes pasty and sticks to the bottoms of the hens.
Remove manure with warm water and mild soap. Encourage activity with chicken
scratch, let hens out to run around if possible.
Paratyphoid
Transported from carrier hen to the egg, eating or coming in contact with
droppings of infected carriers. Caused by Salmonella paratyphi.
The chicks are drowsy, with eyes closed, ruffled feathers and grouped near
the sources of heat.
Hygiene is the best prevention. Keep rodents and snakes under
control.
Pullorum Disease
Caused by Salmonella Pullorum from egg to chick. Poults are also
affected.
White diarrhea with pasting of the vents.
Antibiotic treatment not recommended as birds may become carriers. Control
is usually by testing and the removal of infected hens.
Rickets
Vitamin D deficiency, phosphorus or calcium imbalance.
Reduced body weight, soft bones or beak, birds rest a lot or become
lame.
Make sure hens have proper vitamin D, calcium and phosphorus. Increase
dosage with vets instructions.
Types of Poultry Worms
Roundworm
Spread by the ingesting infected feces. Roundworms present in small
intestine are 5 to 8cm long. Large roundworms occur when litter or runs have
been used for many years.
poor growth, diarrhea, loss of activity, possible for worm to crawl into
oviduct and inside eggs. (extreme case.)
Flubenvet and other drugs are approved for poultry worms. Organic food grade
diatomaceous earth can be used, 2-5% in dry feed continually and very
effective.
Hairworm
7-18 mm long, about 0.05 mm wide and hair-like in appearance. Earthworms can
be a host, spread by ingesting infected feces.
Diarrhea, weight loss, depression.
Fenbendazole has shown high effectiveness, other drugs are an option.
Organic food grade diatomaceous earth can be used, 2-5% in dry feed continually
and very effective.
Tapeworm
Found in digestive tract of hens and many animals. They can make hooks and
suckers to attach themselves to the lining of the gut. Some species can grow up
to several meters in length. Spread by infected feces and secondary hosts like
flies, ants and snails.
Malnutrition occurs, poor growth, sometimes without symptoms.
Hard to control, practice good hygiene, drug effectiveness is questionable.
Fenbendazole can be tried, sometimes levamisole which is an antibiotic. Organic
food grade diatomaceous earth can be used, 5%-8% (increased dose for tapeworm)
in dry feed continually. DE lacerates worm which comes out with stool in
pieces.
Gapeworm
Infecting the trachea's of hens. Worms clog and obstruct the airway. Adults
travel through the lungs causing a severe pneumonia. Eggs found in the feces.
Can spread by eating infected slugs, snails, earthworms.
Hens "gape" or open their mouth while stretching their necks over and
over.
Ivermectin is often used. Organic food grade diatomaceous earth can be used,
2-5% in dry feed continually and very effective.
**For proper use and dosage of medicine, talk to your vet.
**Food grade Diatomaceous Earth is all organic and non toxic. It can be
every bit as effective as medicine for certain treatments.
Food grade DE is safe to add in hens feed, to use on hens body and in coop.
Illness Causes Symptoms Treatment / Prevention
Amonia Burn
Damp or wet litter.
Eyes water, may become blind.
Make sure coop stays dry and clean, give vitamin A. Sprinkle organic food
grade diatomaceous earth on coop floor to keep it dry.
Aspergillosis
Birds inhale spores from moldy feed, litter and dust.
Loss of appetite, more thirsty.
Disinfect entire coop and feeders at least once a year, keep coop clean and
dry, remove wet litter. Sprinkle organic food grade diatomaceous earth on coop
floor to keep dry.
Bronchitis
Airborne Virus.
Sneezing, coughing, loss of egg production, soft egg shell.
Vaccinate before laying begins, no treatment.
Botulism
Decayed matter is eaten. (animal or vegetable.)
Difficulty breathing, can't walk, very weak, can't swallow.
Keep coops and yard clean, feed only fresh foods, remove any dead animals,
try Epsom Salts in water. (1 lb salt in 5 gal. of water.)
Bumble Foot
Bruised or cuts on bottom of feet.
Infection gets in the skin, hard time walking, scab under the foot.
Keep floors non-slippery, not too height of roost, open and drain any
infection and paint wound with iodine.
Coccidiosis
Hens eat the droppings that are contaminated with the parasite which attack
the lining of the intestines.
High death rate in flock, loss of appetite and egg production, bloody
stool.
Vaccinate as chicks, in major outbreaks give recommended medicine in water.
(Can also try 1/4 C. of vinegar per gal. of water.)
Coryza
Contagious respiratory bacterial disease. Can spread at poultry shows, some
hens can be carriers even if they are better.
Nasal discharge, eyes goopy & sticky, loss of appetite and egg
production.
Keep hens the same age group, antibiotics can be recommended by
vet.
Cannibalism
Too many hens in one space, not enough feed (protein) or water, boredom,
taste of blood, bright colors.
Pecking each other, can cause open wounds and sometimes kill other hens, egg
eating.
Make sure hens have enough space to run around, provide plenty of water and
feed. If cannibalism gets bad, start feeding a mash or crumb so they get full
faster. Offer variety of treats to keep them entertained, chicken scratch keeps
them busy. (More treats listed on chicken care page.) Trim beaks if necessary.
Enteritis (diarrhea)
Hard to diagnose, many types of causes. Mainly from drinking water that is
contaminated with bacteria or viruses.
Hen has diarrhea, watery droppings in variation of colors from yellow, white
and green.
Get specific diagnosis from a vet, practice good sanitation with coop and
yard, use plastic waterers.
Leg Injuries
Accidents, slippery floors, rusty wire, infection, etc.
Swollen joints, soft bones, twisted legs, broken bones, swollen feet,
paralysis, legs flex sideways.
Use wood chips on the coop floor, do not use newspaper even for chicks,
avoid slippery linoleum and vinyl floors for coop. Determine cause and treat
accordingly. Wood or dirt floors are best, they also air out
better.
Lymphoid Leukosis
Tumor caused viral infection,(enlarged liver.) Can be transmitted to younger
hens from older infected hens.
reduced feed intake, weakness, diarrhea, dehydration, weight loss,
depression and reduced egg production.
Keep flocks the same age, brood away from older hens.
Lice
Can spread from new hens or wild birds. Housing ducks and geese with hens
can contribute.
Decrease in egg production and weight gain. Increased disease
susceptibility, loss in appetite, diarrhea, excessive grooming, and sometimes
molting is triggered, death can occur.
Clean shavings and feathers in coop, inspection is great
prevention to catch them early (inspect around vents once monthly if possible),
dust with Seven powder as directed or organic food grade diatomaceous earth
every 1-2 weeks until gone. Sprinkle food grade DE in coop and nest boxes. Read
more on Chicken Care page about lice and mites.
Marek's Disease
Airborne, Herpes virus. spread by contaminated skin & feather dust
(dander), litter and infected hens.
Paralysis of wings, legs, neck. Eyes are a grey color.
Only purchase vaccinated chicks. Keep flock the same age, keep younger hens
separated.
Mites
Poultry mites are tiny reddish brown bugs that suck the blood at night when
chicken is roosting. Lives in hen house and on the hen. Northern fowl mites are
aggressive and feed day and night. (Wild birds can spread different types of
mites.) Scaly Leg mites can get in hens leg scales.
Very similar symptoms as lice, loss of egg production and appetite,
excessive grooming, bright pink bottoms and feathers falling out. Untreated can
result in death. Leg mites cause scales to lift, legs swell and sometimes ooze.
(ouch.)
Clean shavings is coop as needed. Keep organic food grade diatomaceous earth
on hand at all times, sprinkle it on coop floor, in next boxes and in corners.
Inspect hens once monthly around vents, dust with food grade
diatomaceous earth as needed once a week until gone. Seven powder can be used
or other various pour on medications.
Newcastle Disease
Virus spread by feces, contact with contaminated feed, water, equipment and
clothing.
Nervous and respiratory signs, coughing, nasal discharge, decrease in egg
production.
Vaccination, sanitary measures reduces the likelihood of outbreaks. No
treatment.
Omphalitis
Effects baby chicks, most commonly caused by bacteria, usually unsanitary
Hatchery.
May involve the chicks appearing drowsy, they drop their head and look
inferior to the other chicks.
Make sure to get chicks from reputable hatchery.
Pasty Manure on Bottom.
Lack of activity, stress while being transported.
Manure becomes pasty and sticks to the bottoms of the hens.
Remove manure with warm water and mild soap. Encourage activity with chicken
scratch, let hens out to run around if possible.
Paratyphoid
Transported from carrier hen to the egg, eating or coming in contact with
droppings of infected carriers. Caused by Salmonella paratyphi.
The chicks are drowsy, with eyes closed, ruffled feathers and grouped near
the sources of heat.
Hygiene is the best prevention. Keep rodents and snakes under
control.
Pullorum Disease
Caused by Salmonella Pullorum from egg to chick. Poults are also
affected.
White diarrhea with pasting of the vents.
Antibiotic treatment not recommended as birds may become carriers. Control
is usually by testing and the removal of infected hens.
Rickets
Vitamin D deficiency, phosphorus or calcium imbalance.
Reduced body weight, soft bones or beak, birds rest a lot or become
lame.
Make sure hens have proper vitamin D, calcium and phosphorus. Increase
dosage with vets instructions.
Types of Poultry Worms
Roundworm
Spread by the ingesting infected feces. Roundworms present in small
intestine are 5 to 8cm long. Large roundworms occur when litter or runs have
been used for many years.
poor growth, diarrhea, loss of activity, possible for worm to crawl into
oviduct and inside eggs. (extreme case.)
Flubenvet and other drugs are approved for poultry worms. Organic food grade
diatomaceous earth can be used, 2-5% in dry feed continually and very
effective.
Hairworm
7-18 mm long, about 0.05 mm wide and hair-like in appearance. Earthworms can
be a host, spread by ingesting infected feces.
Diarrhea, weight loss, depression.
Fenbendazole has shown high effectiveness, other drugs are an option.
Organic food grade diatomaceous earth can be used, 2-5% in dry feed continually
and very effective.
Tapeworm
Found in digestive tract of hens and many animals. They can make hooks and
suckers to attach themselves to the lining of the gut. Some species can grow up
to several meters in length. Spread by infected feces and secondary hosts like
flies, ants and snails.
Malnutrition occurs, poor growth, sometimes without symptoms.
Hard to control, practice good hygiene, drug effectiveness is questionable.
Fenbendazole can be tried, sometimes levamisole which is an antibiotic. Organic
food grade diatomaceous earth can be used, 5%-8% (increased dose for tapeworm)
in dry feed continually. DE lacerates worm which comes out with stool in
pieces.
Gapeworm
Infecting the trachea's of hens. Worms clog and obstruct the airway. Adults
travel through the lungs causing a severe pneumonia. Eggs found in the feces.
Can spread by eating infected slugs, snails, earthworms.
Hens "gape" or open their mouth while stretching their necks over and
over.
Ivermectin is often used. Organic food grade diatomaceous earth can be used,
2-5% in dry feed continually and very effective.
**For proper use and dosage of medicine, talk to your vet.
**Food grade Diatomaceous Earth is all organic and non toxic. It can be
every bit as effective as medicine for certain treatments.
Food grade DE is safe to add in hens feed, to use on hens body and in coop.